Another 90 joins the pack ...............

[kingsonlim]

have a party for your daughter, invite all her friends, have the paint you wanted for the landy......start a painting competition...

unfortunately, you can't put the landy into the oven to dry the paint quicker...

[tecnick]

LRO magazine ran an article about painting a landy on a budget a few years back, if I remember correctly, the best result was a matt military paint using a gloss roller. I think that’s what I will try when I eventually get some new/used panels/doors.

Cheers Nick

[Bo]

The military have a colour ideally suited to your motor Nick.

[tecnick]

I'm really never going to be able to talk about paint am I, perhaps I should just go with Barbie Pink and have done with it.

Cheers Nick

[bandiflip]

Well...mine cost 35 quid all done and dusted to paint!! And its easy to touch after any scrapes!!...Just a bit of a bugger to find it in the woods!!!!!!

[tecnick]

Paint. 5 ltr. landrover. matt. black.... one tin

Paint. 5ltr. landrover matt. olive... one tin

on the quick.....paint.

Well done lads



Nick

[Zedman]

Cheers Nick

Read up on the bit you meant, i wonder if the Tremclad paint is the way to go, if picture can be belived it seems to look good (not even considering it was applied with a roller )

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/6 ... C00194.jpg

More info about 9 posts down on this link

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/sho ... art=1&vc=1

[varleym]

Well thanks to great advice from you guys on the forum and some bits of kit from Kingson and Richard, the timing belt is changed and everything is re-assembled - and I don't even have any bits left over

Guess we were all newbies at some stage and like most jobs, once you've done it the first time it only takes a third of the time to do it again.

Cheers

Mark

[kingsonlim]

great to hear that.....

[Zedman]

Grats on pulling it off, I had the benift of watching Kingson do mine, but I agree the Forum and the internet make life so much easier, BUT a few never forget to 'phone a friend' sometime chatting on the phone is so much eaisier, or just get a chum to come and give you a hand.

I have have have lots of help and its has been invaluable and apperciated )

[varleym]

Few smaller jobs today:

Fitted front propshaft;
Stripped, cleaned & rebuilt handbrake assembly (needs some new shoes);
Re-wrapped main front to rear wiring loom in preparation for re-threading through chassis;
Went round and gave all the exposed bolt threads a coat of waxoyl;

If my bits come from Paddocks tomorrow I'll start on the rear brake pipes.

Cheers

Mark

[nicks90]

i wouldnt put the wiring loom back in through the chassis. Makes maintanence harder if the wiring is in there.

Also - paint. I have seen very good results using coach paint like tekaloid. Chap i know used 4 brushed on coats and let each coat cure for a couple of days and then wet+dry to flat it down before the next coat. Final coat was thinned down with loads of thinners and then used a very fine wet+dry with a light oil to flat it back. Finally used a mechanical buffing wheel with T-cut type stuff, followed by a good polish. It looked absolutely stunning. Seriously deep and perfect shine. Wasnt on a landrover though, was a lovely old tractor. All the panels were in perfect condition stripped back to bare metal with an etch primer applied first though. But thats always the way with any painting (car or house!), preperation is the key to a good finish.
That paint finish was a million miles better than the avarage 'orange peel' factory paint finish you find on discos and rangies.

[varleym]

Spent last night re-building the handbrake assembly with new shoes and also fitted the rear prop-shaft. Whilst fitting the prop I noticed that there was a lot of play in the main diff pinion not only in terms of rotation (which I might have expected) but also side to side and front to back. Indeed when you get hold of the rear of the prop-shaft and 'shake' it there is a significant amount of movement, almost as it the UJ's were knackered (but the UJ's are in fact OK).

Not knowing diff anatomy too well, is there a bearing at the front of the diff which is replaceable without too much hassle or do the above symptoms point to a more general 'wear and tear' issue with the diff?

On the assumption that re-building the diff (correctly!) is beyond my current technical ability I guess there's basically 2 options:

1. Get an exchange fully re-built diff (circa £300 ) which should last a good few years hopefully, or;

2. Just get another secondhand one off FleaBay for about £50 and it lasts as long as it lasts.

Any relevant comments/thoughts gratefully appreciated.

Cheers

Mark

[Bo]

Hi Mark, I would try a bearing first.
http://www.lrdirect.com/539707-bearing/
Don't forget a new seal as well.
https://www.lrdirect.com/ftc5258-oil-seal/

[Bo]

This is a good source of part numbers for most LR products.
http://www.bearmach.com/downloads.html
Click on your vehicle and save the pdf file to your pc.