Please note that the club forum is no longer active and is only visible as an archive.
Information is now sent out via our various alternative means of communicating through our WhatsApp group, Facebook page, the core web site and, of course, club nights and at events face to face.
Novice building a wreck!
- madcalc
- Posts: 230
- Joined: Sat Mar 07, 2009 7:46 pm
- Location: leeds
- Full Name: david medd
Help! may sound daft but follow the plot!
Bought 2 rubber couplings for prop shaft recently 1 to replace torn one and one as a spare but found after that the reason I'm destroying them is I have 4" lift on rear (while front is 2"). Adivce from that was to buy an off-road shaft with more angle on it. it came with 4 bolt holes at bottom end so had to buy adaptor(see pic). Am I right in saying that the adaptor replaces the plate in the rear diff, couples straight to the new shaft and the rubbers go in the bin? Am I doing the right thing? And what breaks instead of the rubbers?
Bought 2 rubber couplings for prop shaft recently 1 to replace torn one and one as a spare but found after that the reason I'm destroying them is I have 4" lift on rear (while front is 2"). Adivce from that was to buy an off-road shaft with more angle on it. it came with 4 bolt holes at bottom end so had to buy adaptor(see pic). Am I right in saying that the adaptor replaces the plate in the rear diff, couples straight to the new shaft and the rubbers go in the bin? Am I doing the right thing? And what breaks instead of the rubbers?
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
- jim
- Posts: 307
- Joined: Sun Jan 07, 2007 8:53 am
- Location: Harrogate
- Full Name: James Poulton
My Discovery is showing signs that the rubber propshaft joint is going to fail soon and i am thinking of changing to a conventional propshaft. All my previous Land Rovers have had a standard propshaft and have given good service with the occasional joint change.
The flange nut requires setting to a specified torque and it is necessary to fit a new oil seal when replacing it.
This is all the info i have and some of the other club members may be able to help further.
Cheers Jim
The flange nut requires setting to a specified torque and it is necessary to fit a new oil seal when replacing it.
This is all the info i have and some of the other club members may be able to help further.
Cheers Jim
- Bo
- Posts: 682
- Joined: Sat Jan 27, 2007 6:35 pm
- Location: WF10
- Full Name: Scot Chegg
Hi Mate,
Just bin the rubber ring, it's about as much use a chocolate fireguard.
On the diff nose, you will now be left with a flange with three bolt holes and no obvious way of removing it. In the middle of the spigot that sticks out there should be a threaded hole, M8 from memory, find a set screw (a bolt with a thread that goes all the way to the head) that will screw in and is about 100mm long, then use it to carfully jack out the centre boss. Now you can remove the large nut that holds the flange on. When I changed mine I had to make a spacer as the conventional flange I used from a 90 axle was shorter on the splined section, hopefully if yours is part of a kit it should be right but compare it to the one you take out before fitting it. If you get stuck, give me a call on 07748767383.
Bo
Just bin the rubber ring, it's about as much use a chocolate fireguard.
On the diff nose, you will now be left with a flange with three bolt holes and no obvious way of removing it. In the middle of the spigot that sticks out there should be a threaded hole, M8 from memory, find a set screw (a bolt with a thread that goes all the way to the head) that will screw in and is about 100mm long, then use it to carfully jack out the centre boss. Now you can remove the large nut that holds the flange on. When I changed mine I had to make a spacer as the conventional flange I used from a 90 axle was shorter on the splined section, hopefully if yours is part of a kit it should be right but compare it to the one you take out before fitting it. If you get stuck, give me a call on 07748767383.
Bo
- tecnick
- Posts: 969
- Joined: Tue Jan 09, 2007 9:52 am
- Location: Leeds
- Full Name: Nick Adams
All good tips guys, David, I put two inch lift front and back and have had reasonable wear from my rubber thing, however the motor does look a bit lower at the back, I added some upside down spring seats to make it look taller but not really the answer. Is that why you went for four at the back?
How many inches has everyone else got?
Cheers Nick
P.S Dont Bin rubber bits, sell them to me in order to buy beer.
How many inches has everyone else got?
Cheers Nick
P.S Dont Bin rubber bits, sell them to me in order to buy beer.
- madcalc
- Posts: 230
- Joined: Sat Mar 07, 2009 7:46 pm
- Location: leeds
- Full Name: david medd
- Bo
- Posts: 682
- Joined: Sat Jan 27, 2007 6:35 pm
- Location: WF10
- Full Name: Scot Chegg
When we originally built Rod's Rangie, it had the Starsky and Hutch stance so we swapped the springs front to rear and it sat nice and level but plus 2 inch. Now it's bobtailed that's a different barrel of cotton buds as the weight reduction has caused it to reach skyward again at the back and the TDi has pulled the front down. When I built the Disco I put the slightly longer springs on the front, my logic was that was the heavy end so would sink the most. It might be worth a swap front to rear. Have the springs got a colour code painted on them? If so it might be worth having a look here,
http://www.landroverclub.net/Club/HTML/Spring_rates.html
http://www.landroverclub.net/Club/HTML/Spring_rates.html
- madcalc
- Posts: 230
- Joined: Sat Mar 07, 2009 7:46 pm
- Location: leeds
- Full Name: david medd
- madcalc
- Posts: 230
- Joined: Sat Mar 07, 2009 7:46 pm
- Location: leeds
- Full Name: david medd
- Rod
- Posts: 692
- Joined: Mon Jan 08, 2007 6:59 pm
- Location: Leeds
- Full Name: tony
Im not sure if this will help or not
I put a 2" lift on the rangie then bobtailed it and fitted a log burner at the front.
This made the car nose heavey.
So I them got some 3" lift springs for the front only which apears to have solved my problem
Having taken the 2" lift springs off they are sat on a self in the play room next to a set of standard disco front spring which are taller but I think the gadge is smaller.
The 2" spring are 390mm tail
The Disco springs are 410mm tail
Are you sure you have the correct springs for a log burner
I put a 2" lift on the rangie then bobtailed it and fitted a log burner at the front.
This made the car nose heavey.
So I them got some 3" lift springs for the front only which apears to have solved my problem
Having taken the 2" lift springs off they are sat on a self in the play room next to a set of standard disco front spring which are taller but I think the gadge is smaller.
The 2" spring are 390mm tail
The Disco springs are 410mm tail
Are you sure you have the correct springs for a log burner
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests
