Roger's RRC: An update

[TwoSheds]

Well it turns out that there IS a No4 Pozidrive - and it fits like a glove in the hand brake drum screws Unfortunately I couldn't find an impact driver bit in this size, but I did manage to get a set of cheapo hammer-through screwdrivers which includes a No4 Poz. Although they look and feel awful, the actual driver part appears tough and a good thump with my other new purchase: Land Rover Special Tool #1 (a 4lb lump hammer) and off they popped with no problems.

So - the reason for all this stripping? Originally to swap the brakes from the Disco to the RRC because of the RRC having the wrong discs fitted (only 8mm thick ) and the calipers were, well you judge for yourself (Disco caliper on the left )



While starting the brake rotor swap I noticed some bad corrosion on the axle tube and on the brackets, and so I decided to swap the whole axle instead. The corrosion on the actual tube was bad, and the shocker bracket was nearly through, but this is the worst bit:



I was surprised to find that the oil in the axle was quite good...



which probably accounts for the generally good condition of the actual differential unit:



... and half-shafts:



So... Rather than getting closer to completion, the poor girl is now looking sorrier than ever while I wait for another set of axle stands to arrive for use while removing the Disco axle:



One day it WILL be finished...

Rog

[TwoSheds]

A bit of progress yesterday - my new axle-stands arrived so that I can get the axle out of the Disco - this is proceeding without drama, just like on the RRC, the ball joint came off it's taper with four whacks of the lump hammer, and the oil in this unit is even better than the RRC! It looked brand new! I wish I hadn't drained it into the manky catch-tank now - I would have re-used it..
Tonight I will be removing/cleaning the other Disco brake caliper and removing the disc covers. Then (depending on time) I will lower it onto a couple of bits of plywood and trundle it out on the discs. I don't really want to take it out of the Disco until I think I have time to get it into the RRC - just so that the front garden doesn't look too much like a scrapyard..

[tecnick]

Getting there Rog, I wish I had a bit more time/motivation to repair mine. Still, new engine waiting. By the way, did you start with a red rangie and work outwards

Cheers Nick

[geoff]

Red door matches my red door mirror Nick

Geoff

[TwoSheds]

Well I thought I would get the axle out of the Disco and clean it up ready for painting tonight, but while I was wire-brushing it I thought 'that looks a bit thin'.. So I gave it a poke with a scriber:



I sat and looked at it for a while before deciding to just patch it (self-tapper and Sikaflex perhaps?) while I get the rest of the car on the road and then get a new pan welded on (I wouldn't trust my welding to be oil-tight) at a later date.

Not too happy tonight

[davew]

Welding a pan on with the axle on the vehicle is a pain, it's amazing how small a hole EP90 can squeeze through - took me two attempts to do the front axle pan with the axle in situ, did the rear axle off the vehicle and got it right first tome. A lot easier when you can get free access for the perfect torch angle.

[TwoSheds]

Welding a pan on with the axle on the vehicle is a pain, it's amazing how small a hole EP90 can squeeze through - took me two attempts to do the front axle pan with the axle in situ, did the rear axle off the vehicle and got it right first tome. A lot easier when you can get free access for the perfect torch angle.

I suspected as much and had decided that I would have to remove the axle again - but with all freshly copaslipped bolts I don't think it would be too much of a job to get it out... Hopefully...

I do have a couple of questions though:

1. Paddocks only list pans for Defenders - are they different on the RRC?

2. Paddock list two different ones for defenders:

Diff pan for 90 - weld on - with hole for filler plug - rear axle from LA930456 - DEFENDER LR150 £29.50 ex VAT

Diff pan for 90 - weld on - with hole for filler plug - rear axle to KA930455 - DEFENDER LR150 £29.50 ex VAT

So - since my RRC is 'GA' - would any of them fit? (EDIT - Idiot! It's the earlier one: to KA930455 )

I suspect that all of them would fit, but you never know..
I will be asking Paddocks these questions later this morning, but it's always nice to have confirmation from experts..

[davew]

I have one of these fitted front and rear, bit more expensive but you don't need a diff guard.

http://www.steveparkers.com/proddetail.php?prod=SPCK210

[TwoSheds]

I have one of these fitted front and rear, bit more expensive but you don't need a diff guard.

http://www.steveparkers.com/proddetail.php?prod=SPCK210

NICE!

Unfortunately I have just ordered a normal one from Paddocks...

[davew]

You can always cancel it.

Next time, read the forum first

[TwoSheds]

Next time, read the forum first

Got the axle all re-assembled now, but did have a D'OH! moment when making up the brake pipes - no, not the usual D'OH! moment where you realise that you haven't put the union nut on before making the flare but... Well see for yourself:
(The blob of sikaflex is to cover/seal up a small leak )

My second attempt was rather better (and better shaped to fit the axle):


And the axle itself looks like this (although it's neater now with the mark II brake pipes):
(the blue cable ties will be replaced with something more suitable )

So! The RRC is back on it's wheels again. Now for the front brakes! I wonder what joys await me there? I can tell from the pads that they work ok (unlike the old rear brakes) but I bet there is more fun to come..

Roger

p.s. Who believed me about the Sikaflex? I used it where the pipe goes over the axle and is difficult to clamp. It is to prevent chafing.

p.p.s. Getting an axle in by yourself is a bit of a faff eh? From wheeling it under the back end to stepping away with it all bolted up (not including the propshaft which still needs some 'work' on the UJs) must have taken me about four hours! I wonder how fast they did it at the factory?

[TwoSheds]

Now for the front brakes! I wonder what joys await me there?

[colonel_kurtz]
The horror... The horror...
[/colonel_kurtz]

Well the front brake were working - but...

On one side the (vented) disk has been skimmed down to 18mm thick, is too small in diameter (the pads overhang it by a couple of mm) and has had the usual lip taken off the outer edge using a grinder by the look of it - the last 5mm of what should be working surface is chamfered off

On the other side the story is simpler – the disk is 22mm thick, but has been skimmed on one face only so that it sits off centre in the caliper. It is also too small in diameter

I will be replacing both disks


The calipers are quite corroded and the pistons are peeling chrome, but the seals look ok and so I will be refurbishing these with new pistons (which again I have from the Disco).

The pads are fine – apart from the lips caused by the small dia disks, but I have a new set intended for the Disco so I will be using those instead unless anyone throws up their hands in horror since:
The Disco pads (upto '93 model year) are actually the same as pre-90 RRC pads and are different to the ones currently fitted which are the later RRC ('90 to '93) pads. All calipers and (vented) disks are the same so the earlier pads will fit OK.
I know it's only another £18 for an axle-set of pads and fitting kit, but frankly i don't like the more recent retention method (with the coil springs which rust through in minutes) and £18 is £18!!!.

The chome balls look ok, but the seals are knackered so I'm just going to give them a one-shot for now.

I had a quick look at the Disco hubs while robbing it's brakes - the wheel bearings are RUSTY!!! I have never seen this before in 40 years of messing with cars. I am going to have a look at the oil in the diff, but I suspect that my original plan of robbing out the front axle wouldn't be worth the effort

So now I have a decision t make - Mintex disks at £44 (plus vat) per pair, or "Paddocks slotted and drilled Performance Disks" at £36... Hmm.. Think I'll go for the Mintex

So today I'll be spending still more money at Paddocks...

Roger

[bandiflip]

Hellooo Roger.....a friend of mine who lives in Pudsey is breaking a 3.9 auto Rangerover classic,it is complete apart from wheels and diffs....if ya need anything gimme a shout and will get in touch with him....Or if anyone else needs anything for that matter...He is not a dealer,just a petrol head.....so anyone needs anything,gimme a shout...Cheers....Phil

[TwoSheds]

Hellooo Roger.....a friend of mine who lives in Pudsey is breaking a 3.9 auto Rangerover classic,it is complete apart from wheels and diffs....if ya need anything gimme a shout and will get in touch with him....Or if anyone else needs anything for that matter...He is not a dealer,just a petrol head.....so anyone needs anything,gimme a shout...Cheers....Phil

A year ago I would have ahd a list! But now I am afraid I have already bought most of the stuff I need - but I will bear it in mind if (when) I find anything else that needs replacing...
This weekend has been a total washout with regards to Range Rover work - I have spent most of it 'helping' a neighbour assemble his new 'summer house' (shed). You know the kind of help where you end up doing all the work while he stands around handing you tools and telling stories of his glory days... What a waste of all that excellent weather
Ah well - next weekend had better be nice or else..
Roger

[TwoSheds]

Well the discs are here - have been for over a week now, but I appear to have lost my impetus. This happens now and then, when I just look at it and think to myself that it's just too big a job and it will never pass an MoT and the insurance will be too much and it's just a wreck and... and... and finally - I'd rather watch snooker or bike racing.

Please - if you know anything about motivational techniques - say something to cheer me up and get me going again...

Yesterday afternoon I replaced one spring and removed the front anti-roll bar. That's all for four hours work. It went something lke this:

Try to remove the split pins in the AR bar TREs. (20 mins). Then give up and just undo the bolts, shearing the pins. Should have done that from the start.

Try to crack the AR bar TREs from their tapers. (40 mins). Then give up and cut through AR bar with disc cutter. Cutter snatched and I put a nick in the track rod. Twenty minute verbal self-abuse and checking the condition of the Disco track-rod. It looks ok, but I'm not looking forward to changing it. Severely tempted to get some heavy duty Paddocks rods instead which will have the benefit of new TREs: http://www.paddockspares.com/pp/RANGE_ROVER_1986-1994/Steering/Heavy_Duty_Steering_Rods_for_Range_Rover_Classic_and_Discovery_1_-_with_3_track_rod_ends.html but have resisted for now.

Remove the lower shocker mounting and loosen the upper. Remove the four shock-tower mounting nuts. Then (in order to get room to slide out the tower/shocker assembly) I set about removing a load of LPG and Megajolt related stuff that has been assembles around the tower position. Went ok but was fiddly and frustrating.

Now - with the correct placement of various jacks and axle stands, I remove the spring. Surprisingly I had to compress* it to get it out.

Next replace the bump-stop. Removing the old one I cut the bolts which are seized but loose due to corrosion - and then remember that they slide out. D'OH! Still, they are no good anyway. Luckily I then find that the chassis in this area only has a little surface rust and is soon cleaned up and given a quick blast with the Waxoil.

Fitted new bump-stop and new spring. Re-assemble all the stuff I stripped out for access and (I can't resist this) put the wheel back on and get it off the jacks & stands to see how it looks. Very pleased to find it now sits approximately 11/2" higher than it did at the front, which matches the rear nicely. I bounce around on the bumper corners for a while confirming that the dampers are fine

That was it. Pathetic progress and now (Monday) it's raining. <glum>

TTFN
Rog


* Spring Compression: I have a technique using two ratchet straps which would probably be frowned upon by professionals but seems to work ok. The only problem is they are rather speedy when releasing the tension - this operation is usually performed wearing welding gloves and a full-face helmet and with a large cushion between the spring and my vitals...