whats it worth question
whats it worth question
yeah, i know - how longs a bit of string etc.,.....
but i genuinely have no idea - not even a vague guess - as to how much my 90 is worth.
Basically I'm not really using it very much and have only been able to attend 3 events last year and 3 the year before that. So its way to uncomfortable and impractical as a daily driver for such little actual offroading. I;m toying with the idea of selling it and using the proceeds towards a more dual purpose 4x4 - so i can still play, but have a few more comforts on the daily grind.
Most of you are probably familliar with my 90, its a 1995 300tdi in (fairly well painted) bronze green and the chassis+bulkhead is MINT. Dare i say it, but the kleentec coating has actually prevented rusting and its never needed welding and has no rust on it! mud still sticks to it though and it doesnt taste of teflon coated parrots....
had a quick look on ebay to get a guide price and that was no help - as its full of rotten donkeys or overpriced shiny showroom rubbish, i couldnt find a single 'normal' solid looking example for sale.
So if anyone could give me a rough guide price on a well used, but solid reliable csw 90 i would be appreciative.
Nick
but i genuinely have no idea - not even a vague guess - as to how much my 90 is worth.
![Shocked :shock:](./images/smilies/icon_eek.gif)
Basically I'm not really using it very much and have only been able to attend 3 events last year and 3 the year before that. So its way to uncomfortable and impractical as a daily driver for such little actual offroading. I;m toying with the idea of selling it and using the proceeds towards a more dual purpose 4x4 - so i can still play, but have a few more comforts on the daily grind.
Most of you are probably familliar with my 90, its a 1995 300tdi in (fairly well painted) bronze green and the chassis+bulkhead is MINT. Dare i say it, but the kleentec coating has actually prevented rusting and its never needed welding and has no rust on it! mud still sticks to it though and it doesnt taste of teflon coated parrots....
![Twisted Evil :twisted:](./images/smilies/icon_twisted.gif)
had a quick look on ebay to get a guide price and that was no help - as its full of rotten donkeys or overpriced shiny showroom rubbish, i couldnt find a single 'normal' solid looking example for sale.
So if anyone could give me a rough guide price on a well used, but solid reliable csw 90 i would be appreciative.
Nick
Bugger!
Another bloody dent...
Another bloody dent...
- Matthews
- Treasurer
- Posts: 1273
- Joined: Sat Jan 06, 2007 2:45 pm
- Location: Leeds
- Full Name: Matthew Sykes
I'd guestimate at about 3.5>4.5K but you can never tell you might get quite a bit more if the right people are looking at the right time or you might get no sniffs at all because it's a bit battered, most idiots that have money just look for shiny tarts handbag type motors , buy them for 5+k is and then wonder why they have to spend a couple of grand getting it running properly or welded up because they never bothered to look underneath Doh.
The fact that its a CSW is a bonus for most people.
Matthew
The fact that its a CSW is a bonus for most people.
Matthew
i've had several reasonable offers
so thanks for considering and all that!
However, I also had an offer from a chap at work and when the chips were down and a firm offer of cash was handed to me... something very strange happened.
My heart was in my throat, I felt sick and sweated like an MP being audited and I just couldnt do it!!!!!!!! I knew deep down that I would regret selling her and instantly want another and that I wouldnt get one in the same condition or as solid for the money I could afford. Plus I've had the old girl for 10 years now and she`s part of the familly - not close familly, but sort of that irritating annoying sod that keeps visiting at inappropriate times and takes up too much of your time. Either way it would be missed and leave a silly 90 shaped hole in my life.
So project "stop my 90 being bloody irritating" is about to commence.
Jobs are to make a new spare wheel carrier that doesnt rattle like mad at every bump in the road.
get some new csw side panels that arent bent so badly there is a 1/2" gap on both sliding windows and at least a 1/2" gap on both top rear door seals
seal up all the holes in the rear tub where the old csw seats were bolted down.
sort out the window frame / bulkhead seal that leaks rainwater on to your right ankle at 50mph
build a new exhaust that is a bit quieter
make a proper housing for the speakers and amp in the back and tidy the wiring
a new comfy high backed drivers seat
upgrade the heater matrix
add some form of 240v coolant preheater for winter
rip out all the dirty/cracked/sagging interior trim and replace it with some rubber backed carpet tiles - hopefully will stop the panels 'drumming' and look a little nicer.
add some sound proofing to the bulkhead and footwells and also inside both doors.
I will make a moderately comfortable 90!
Nick
![Shocked :shock:](./images/smilies/icon_eek.gif)
However, I also had an offer from a chap at work and when the chips were down and a firm offer of cash was handed to me... something very strange happened.
My heart was in my throat, I felt sick and sweated like an MP being audited and I just couldnt do it!!!!!!!! I knew deep down that I would regret selling her and instantly want another and that I wouldnt get one in the same condition or as solid for the money I could afford. Plus I've had the old girl for 10 years now and she`s part of the familly - not close familly, but sort of that irritating annoying sod that keeps visiting at inappropriate times and takes up too much of your time. Either way it would be missed and leave a silly 90 shaped hole in my life.
So project "stop my 90 being bloody irritating" is about to commence.
Jobs are to make a new spare wheel carrier that doesnt rattle like mad at every bump in the road.
get some new csw side panels that arent bent so badly there is a 1/2" gap on both sliding windows and at least a 1/2" gap on both top rear door seals
seal up all the holes in the rear tub where the old csw seats were bolted down.
sort out the window frame / bulkhead seal that leaks rainwater on to your right ankle at 50mph
build a new exhaust that is a bit quieter
make a proper housing for the speakers and amp in the back and tidy the wiring
a new comfy high backed drivers seat
upgrade the heater matrix
add some form of 240v coolant preheater for winter
rip out all the dirty/cracked/sagging interior trim and replace it with some rubber backed carpet tiles - hopefully will stop the panels 'drumming' and look a little nicer.
add some sound proofing to the bulkhead and footwells and also inside both doors.
I will make a moderately comfortable 90!
Nick
Bugger!
Another bloody dent...
Another bloody dent...
- pamw
- Official
- Posts: 270
- Joined: Fri Jan 05, 2007 11:02 pm
- Location: Knaresborough, N Yorkshire
- Full Name: Pam White
Must be love!
Having just spent the last 6 years commuting 20 miles each way in my Defender the best mods for comfort have been, in no particular order -
Autobox (obviously, as per all the White household fleet!)
Heated windscreen
Electric windows
Remote Central locking/alarm
Upgraded radio (inc Mp3 and DAB) and speakers (inc mini subwoofer)
Tinted rear windows (surprisingly good at keeping it cooler)
Nearly new excellent condition headlining (off eBay, good price)
I had a Lasalle headlining before and although they are very robust and easy to clean the don't help with sound or heat insulation, for which the soft proper headlining is better and I prefer it. Having said that the newer Lasalle ones allow for insulation/soundproofing within the fit so maybe worth checking out what they cost these days....
I think the only other thing I'd get in the longer term is a pre-heater as the td5 takes soooooooo long to warm up! Then again it is only really an issue for 3 months of the year so I'd probably rather spend the money on something else.
Next thing I'm doing, as part of the prep for Oz, but also for longer term comfort is replacing the rear side windows. My windows are after markets, they leak and rattle badly and have the useless anyway catches in the wrong place. Rather than buy over priced secondhand ones that will need new seals before long anyway, I've decided to get a brand new pair from Masai Land Rover, just less than 180 quid a pair for the non-tinted ones. May do stick on tints later if we miss it too much (getting internal guards so don't want it too dark).
Good luck with it Nick!
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
Having just spent the last 6 years commuting 20 miles each way in my Defender the best mods for comfort have been, in no particular order -
Autobox (obviously, as per all the White household fleet!)
Heated windscreen
Electric windows
Remote Central locking/alarm
Upgraded radio (inc Mp3 and DAB) and speakers (inc mini subwoofer)
Tinted rear windows (surprisingly good at keeping it cooler)
Nearly new excellent condition headlining (off eBay, good price)
I had a Lasalle headlining before and although they are very robust and easy to clean the don't help with sound or heat insulation, for which the soft proper headlining is better and I prefer it. Having said that the newer Lasalle ones allow for insulation/soundproofing within the fit so maybe worth checking out what they cost these days....
I think the only other thing I'd get in the longer term is a pre-heater as the td5 takes soooooooo long to warm up! Then again it is only really an issue for 3 months of the year so I'd probably rather spend the money on something else.
Next thing I'm doing, as part of the prep for Oz, but also for longer term comfort is replacing the rear side windows. My windows are after markets, they leak and rattle badly and have the useless anyway catches in the wrong place. Rather than buy over priced secondhand ones that will need new seals before long anyway, I've decided to get a brand new pair from Masai Land Rover, just less than 180 quid a pair for the non-tinted ones. May do stick on tints later if we miss it too much (getting internal guards so don't want it too dark).
Good luck with it Nick!
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
Archaeology - my career in ruins !
my plans for the engine preheater are to have a small 'tank' made that will go inline on the bottom radiator hose. Inside the tank will be a small immersion heater element.
Run the cables up the side of the radiator to a caravan plug behind the grill. Fit a caravan plug and normal plug to a length of armoured cable and stick it in to a timer in the garage when i get home. Timer comes on at 6am and the coolant in the tank will warm up and it should warm up all the coolant via natural convection currents before I get out at 7.30. Unplug and away I go with a warm engine!
Also means i dont need to buy a heated windscreen, as the heater will be warm straight away.
But this bit of the project will be the last bit, as summer is almost here!!!
not sure what to do about the body sides. Gen CSW sides in half decent condition are expensive and I'm sure they rattle from new. Might just go for some solid van sides and cope with the darkness.
Run the cables up the side of the radiator to a caravan plug behind the grill. Fit a caravan plug and normal plug to a length of armoured cable and stick it in to a timer in the garage when i get home. Timer comes on at 6am and the coolant in the tank will warm up and it should warm up all the coolant via natural convection currents before I get out at 7.30. Unplug and away I go with a warm engine!
Also means i dont need to buy a heated windscreen, as the heater will be warm straight away.
But this bit of the project will be the last bit, as summer is almost here!!!
not sure what to do about the body sides. Gen CSW sides in half decent condition are expensive and I'm sure they rattle from new. Might just go for some solid van sides and cope with the darkness.
Bugger!
Another bloody dent...
Another bloody dent...
- davew
- Chairman
- Posts: 2242
- Joined: Fri Jan 05, 2007 8:54 pm
- Location: Knaresborough
- Full Name: Dave White
We might have some spare sides, the windows in them aren't brilliant but the sides are straight... slightly straighter than the ones in Pam's I think ! Are yours the original accident damaged ones still then ?
If you want a cheap solution to rattling and leaking windows Sikaflex is a cheap and easy solution as long as you're not bothered about having opening windows afterwards.
If you want a cheap solution to rattling and leaking windows Sikaflex is a cheap and easy solution as long as you're not bothered about having opening windows afterwards.
- pamw
- Official
- Posts: 270
- Joined: Fri Jan 05, 2007 11:02 pm
- Location: Knaresborough, N Yorkshire
- Full Name: Pam White
nicks90 wrote:Also means i dont need to buy a heated windscreen, as the heater will be warm straight away.
.
Even with warm air it still takes quite a while for a heater blower to demist or defrost a windscreen enough to drive away. In comparison the heated windscreen is extremely quick! Ive been very impressed with mine. I turn the engine from outside before I get in, flick the switch and by the time I've got in,put my seatbelt and glasses on its ready to go. Much much faster than the rear one, and loads faster than the one in e Range Rover!!
Having said that they aren't cheap so probably not worth it if your current screen is in good condition. - I had a cracked windscreen when we did my last rebuild so it needed replacing anyway and seemed like the best option. As it is listed on my insurance mods now so if it gets damaged it'll be a like for like replacement.
Archaeology - my career in ruins !
davew wrote:We might have some spare sides, the windows in them aren't brilliant but the sides are straight... slightly straighter than the ones in Pam's I think ! Are yours the original accident damaged ones still then ?
If you want a cheap solution to rattling and leaking windows Sikaflex is a cheap and easy solution as long as you're not bothered about having opening windows afterwards.
Yep, still the original ones bashed straight, with a hammer and some bits of 2x2. The window frames are bent too so there has always been a gap so neither window fully closes
![Evil or Very Mad :evil:](./images/smilies/icon_evil.gif)
Let me know what you want for your sides, not bothered about the windows opening, was you can't get to the window clips anyway due to the internal hoop.
Bugger!
Another bloody dent...
Another bloody dent...
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